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Nivalis: how to… part 1

Posted on | Anne | 1 Comment on Nivalis: how to… part 1

Guest post by MoonStar

The Sofilantjes Facebook group has been expanding tremendously this year. We are very pleased to see how many people enjoy our patterns.
Over the past few months we’ve noticed there are quite a few of the same questions that keep popping up. Therefor we’ve been thinking to launch a FAQ’s document in the group. Bear with us, we are working on it!
Did you know you can find quite a few FAQ’s on the website? Check it out here.

Of course a lot of the Frequently Asked Questions in the Facebook group involve questions about the way certain parts of patterns are to be constructed.
So, I will be making tutorials on those parts that can be challenging to the beginning sewist.

First pattern that I’m discussing is the Nivalis Dress & Tunic.
In the next 3 days I will try to explain how to:
– hem the bottom (that strange corner part)
– sew the colorblock version
– make and attach the collar

I know hemming the cap sleeves is also something that might need some extra instructions to the less confident sewist. I might do a photo tutorial on this when the weather is getting warmer again (sorry to our Down Under friends or any other folks that live in warm and sunny parts of the globe).


How to hem the bottom of the Nivalis?

I’ve tried several ways. I’ll start with the last one. This is the one my mother suggested. She’s been sewing for about 60 years, so you can say she’s one of my most important role models when it comes to sewing.

Hemming version 1:

These steps are just my way of preparing the actual hemming.
  • I finish the corner edge and the bottom edge with my serger (an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch on a regular machine will do fine as well)
  • Next I draw a line to where my hem needs to be folded (so double of the hemming length; in this particular case 5 cm or 2 inches)
  • Then I fold my hem upwards and press it all around. This really helps the hemming later on!
After preparing the bottom, you will now follow instructions to put your Nivalis together. Come back to this tutorial when you’re ready to hem the bottom, or actually, before you close the sides.
  • When you are sewing the side seams, you do not sew the little corners, you leave them open for this way of hemming.
  • You now fold the bottom upwards. Because you already pressed the hem, this step will be easy. Pin in place!
  • With the bottom hem folded upwards and pinned in place you are ready to sew. To get a clean finish you can baste the hem in place before using your twin needle or some cute decorative stitch.

Hemming version 2:

Another way of hemming is this one. I find it quicker, but it can give just a tad more bulk in the corner if you’re a little bit sloppy…

  • Preparations are the same as version 1, although you might want to skip finishing those little corners, as that can be the reason why the corner gets bulky.
  • When you close the side seams you now also close the little corner!
  • Fold the hem upwards again, which is yet again easier because you pressed it already during preparations. You might have to pay extra attention to the corner when folding it up and pinning it into place.
  • With the bottom edge folded upwards & pinned in place you can start sewing. Yet again, using a basting stitch first can be very helpful.

Want to know how to do the colorblock version of the Nivalis Dress & Tunic? Check out tomorrow’s post!


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