The wonderful Vickie White has offered to show us how she drafts the bust dart for the Litore Tunic and Dress(es) for her beautiful developing tween. I love the way her dresses turn out. She also used the same method on the Solis dress she made her tween. Thank you Vickie!
step one: Measure the child and cut pattern to size. For mine I did a size 12 with 14 length.
Step two: Measuring your darts, you want these to sit on the side of the breast, the side seam on mine is 6″ (15,25 cm) so my dart would sit 2 1/2″ (6,35 cm) from the side seam (3 1/2″ (9 cm) if measuring from the top seam). You will be going in about 2″ (5 cm).
Step three: Mark your pattern, the dart will be 3/4″ (2 cm) wide at the side seam and angled in to meet 2″ (5 cm) in. you want the dart angled slightly down.
Step four: mark your fabric, I used tailor chalk you can also use pins. DO NOT CUT ANY FABRIC OUT. Make sure to mark both the outer and liner pieces.
Step five: sew the dart in place and iron it down flat. At this stage you can sew the side seams and run a rough test fit to make sure the dart falls at the side of the bust.
Step six: put the bodice piece together as the instructions and test fit
Follow the rest of the directions from here to finish out your dress.