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ADV and Sylva Onesie Binding Tutorial

Ook al ben ik uit de rompers, ik vind ze ontzettend leuk om te maken en als (kraam-)cadeautje te geven. In deze gastblog beschrijf ik een andere manier van het aanzetten van de biaisband bij rompers.

Even though I don’t have kids that wear onesies anymore, I love making them as gifts.
In this guest post I show another way to attach the binding to the bottom of the onesies.

In de beschrijving van zowel de ADV als de Sylva romper wordt beschreven hoe je de biaisband aan de onderzijde vastzet wanneer het lijfje aan één zijde gesloten is. Na het aanzetten van het biaisband sluit je dan het lijf waarna je de zijnaad naar achteren vast zet. Ik vind het mooier wanneer de onderzijde allemaal uit 1 stuk lijkt te zijn, daarom zet ik de biaisband op een andere manier aan.

Hieronder een tutorial over hoe ik de onderkant van de romper maak.

In the description of the ADV and Sylva Onesie, you can see how you attach the binding by leaving one side of the bodice open. After attaching the binding, you close the bodice and stitch the sideseam to the back.  I like it better when the binding seems to be in one piece. That’s why I attach it in a different way. Here’s my tutorial. 

Let wel: ik heb nooit naailes gehad, alles dat ik doe heb ik mezelf geleerd door te doen, filmpjes te kijken en door te vragen op onder andere de Sofilantjes Sew and Show groep op facebook. Mijn technieken zullen daarom vast niet altijd zijn zoals het hoort, maar voor mij werken ze.

Note: I never had sewing lessons. I am self-taught by just trying, watching videos and asking questions in groups like Sofilantjes Sew and Show on Facebook. Therefore my techniques will not be right all the time but they work for me. 

Ik begin met het locken van de bovenste delen:  de schoudernaden en de boorden om de mouwen en het aan elkaar locken van voor- en achterpand van het lijfje. De delen die doorgestikt moeten worden, zoals de halsboorden bij de Sylva romper, stik ik alvast door. Dan hoef ik later al deze onderdelen slechts nog te bevestigen aan het lijf. Hierna ga ik beginnen met het aanzetten van de biaisband aan de onderzijde van de romper.

I start by sewing the top parts of the onesie: the shoulderseams, the sleeves and stitching what has to be stitched. I use an overlock for attaching the front- and back panel of the bodice to each other. After doing all of this, I start with the bottom binding. 

1. Biaisband sluiten
Nadat ik alle onderdelen voor de bovenkant van de romper gemaakt heb en het lijfje aan beide zijden heb gesloten, naai ik de biaisband voor de onderkant aan de korte zijden op elkaar. Hierbij houd ik 1 cm naadwaarde aan. Dit kan met de gewone machine of met de overlock. Met de overlock (wat ik vaak doe) krijg je wel iets meer verdikking op de zijnaad. After sewing all of the pieces for the top part and closing the bodice, I close the binding at the short sides. I keep 1 cm seam allowance. I often use my overlock, but it gives a bit thicker side seam.
2. Naadwaarde en plaats bepalen
Op de lange zijden zet ik stipjes voor de centimeter naadwaarde. Op de markeringen voor de zijnaden en middenvoor en middenachter plaats ik een speld. I dot 1 cm on the long sides. I mark the side seams and back – and front center with a pin.
3. Plaats bepalen op romper
Ook op het lijfje plaats ik een speld op de zijnaden en middenvoor en middenachter. I place a pin on the side seams and back- and front center of the bodice.
4. Vastspelden
Ik leg de spelden op de biaisband en het lijfje met elkaar gelijk zodat ik daarna alles op 1cm kan gaan spelden en de band mooi verdeeld wordt. I line the pins of the binding and the bodice and divide the binding over the bodice using 1 cm seam allowance. 
5. Stikken
Stik de biaisband op 1cm vast op het lijfje. Stitch at 1 cm. 
6. Optioneel: terugknippen
Persoonlijk vind ik het fijn om na het vaststikken de rand terug te knippen op ongeveer 0,6 cm Personally I like to cut back fabric to about 0.25 in. This step is optional. 
7. Biaisband omslaan
Sla de band om en naar binnen en speld weer vast. Veel spelden gebruiken en rustig naaien zijn belangrijk bij het aanzetten van biaisband. Of je de spelden nu horizontaal of verticaal wilt zetten, is persoonlijke voorkeur. Flip over the binding to the other side and fold it inwards. Use a lot of pins. I think it’s personal preference if you like your pins horizontal or vertical.
8. Wisselen van naald
Bij deze stap wissel ik naar tweelingnaald of ik kies een siersteek. Switch to a twin needle or decorative stitch.
9. Doorstikken biaisband
Met tweelingnaald of siersteek stik ik de biaisband door. De onderkant van de romper is nu, op de knopen na, klaar. Stitch the binding using twin needle or decorative stitch. Now the bottom of your onesie is finished except for buttons. 
10. Bovenste delen bevestigen
Voordat ik met het lijfje begon heb ik de schoudernaden al genaaid en de mouwen in elkaar gezet. Samen vormen zij het bovenste deel. Bevestig de bovenste delen aan het lijfje en steek spelden op de plekken waar de knoopjes moeten komen. Before I started with the bodice, I already sewed the shoulder seams and made the sleeves. Together, they make the top of the onesie. Attach the top pieces to the bodice and pin the spots for the buttons. 
11. Knoopjes bevestigen
Bevestig de knoopjes aan de onderzijde van de romper. Ik gebruik hier babydrukknopen 8mm van Prym voor en bevestig deze met de variotang. Attach the buttons to the bottom of your onesie.

Bij deze mijn uitleg over het aanzetten van biaisband aan de onderzijde van een romper.

Heel veel succes bij het maken van deze fantastische patroontjes!

This was my tutorial about attaching binding to the bottom part of the onesie.

Good luck making these fantastic patterns!

Groetjes,

Tanja Vinke-Smeenge

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Sylva Onesie – RELEASE

Almost two months ago miss Rainbow was born. Two months before her birth we released our first onesie pattern and today we are releasing the second. Today, we are releasing the Sylva Onesie, the little sister of our popular Sylva Shirt and Tunic. The Sylva Onesie has the same symmetrical V shaped neckline that will make dressing your little one easy. In contrast to the Sylva shirt, the Sylva Onesie is a unisex pattern. The unique V shape is suitable for both girls and boys. The Sylva onesie comes in both short and long sleeves.

Let’s start out with some pictures of Miss Rainbow herself. We showed her off on Instagram already, but we did not show her on the blog yet. Both onesies have extra special fabric. You will not have to guess why the rainbow colored fabric is special, but the grey one is extra fun because in that same fabric Anne wore a Vallis during pregnancy. A onesie in general is perfect for using treasured fabric due to the size of the garment, but the color block of the Sylva makes the pattern extra suitable, because even smaller fabric remnants can be turned into unique garments.

Our testers did a great job again and many of them got so excited that they sewed up several. Seeing all those cute little ones in their beautiful onesies did make several testers long for the time that their babies were super tiny. Fortunately, the Sylva is also the perfect baby gift. Even if your own little one is much bigger already, you will often have the opportunity to make one of your friends or family happy with a beautiful handmade gift.

 

The onesie comes in a wide size range, from newborn to 86 /18M. This means that we did not only have tiny little ones in our tester group, but also older ones that are already standing and/or walking, and they are just as cute and comfortable in their Sylva onesies as the smaller ones.

Now that you have seen pictures of the fit of the onesie, let’s take a look at some detailed pictures. The Sylva neckline has a subtle overlap that is the same on the front and the back and sews up quick. The neckline is perfect for some decorative stitching. The legs are finished with a bias binding. The first time sewing a jersey bias might be a bit of a challenge but all the testers agreed that with every new onesie it quickly became easier. Do not be afraid if you have not done it before. Just take your time, pin well, and you will amaze yourself how nicely it all comes together.

Several of our testers use washable diapers, and our onesies also easily cover bigger bums as well. Make sure that you measure your little one without diapers though when you determine the size.

Our testers were creative with the color block options, which means that we have examples of many different variations. The Sylva looks great in one color, but also with the upper body pieces and sleeves in a contrasting color. Having two color sleeves and even just one of the upper body pieces in a contrasting color gives amazing results.

You can now find the Sylva Onesie in our webshop.

English pattern: http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/sylva-onesie-pdf-pattern-en/

Dutch pattern: http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/sylva-romper-pdf-patroon-nl/

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Cicero and Follis Bomber Collar Hack

Hi allemaal,

Vandaag laat ik zien hoe je een bomberkraag aan de Cicero of de Foliis kan zetten.

 

Hi there,

Today I will show you how to make the Bomber collar for the Cicero or Foliis.

 

    

Allereerst heb je natuurlijk de Cicero of de Foliis nodig in de maat die je gaat maken.

Verder heb je een meetlint, boordstof en het patroondeel van de bomberkraag nodig .

 

First of all, you need the Cicero or Foliis in the size you are going to make and you also need a measuring tape, ribbon and the pattern piece for the bomber collar.

 

Je knipt alle patroon delen volgens patroon, behalve de Capuchon of rechte kraag.

Werk volgens de instructie, tot het moment van doorstikken van de rits en aanzetten van de Capuchon of rechte kraag.

Deze wordt natuurlijk vervangen door de bomberkraag.

 

Meet de bovenkant van de Cicero of Foliis op van links naar rechts. (Hier zit normaal de Capuchon of rechte kraag)

Van dit getal, neem je 80% (getal: 100 x .80). Dit getal noteer je, want die hebben we nodig.

 

Cut all of the pieces you need, except the hoody or the straight collar.  Sew the jacket as stated in the instructions and stop at the point where the zipper needs to be topstitched.

 

Now you need to measure the neckline of the Cicero or Foliis from left to right (where the hoody or collar normally goes )

Take 80% of the measured number and write this down (example: 100 x .80)

 

Nu gaan we de bomberkraag knippen.

Hiervoor knip je een strook welke 10 cm hoog is en even lang als het getal wat je net hebt noteert.

Nadat je dit gedaan hebt, heb je het nieuwe patroondeel nodig.

Dit leg je op beide uiteinde van de kraag. Knip af langs de geronde lijn.

 

Now it’s time to cut the bomber collar. For this you need to cut a piece of fabric that’s 10 cm high and the length of the number you just wrote done.

After cutting, you need the new pattern piece to round the short edges.

 

Vouw nu de kraag in de lengte dubbel en speld hem aan je Cicero of Foliis zoals op de foto.

Fold the collar in half lengthwise and pin it like the photo below.

Let hierbij op, dat de rits nog niet naar binnen is gevouwen.

 

Note, the zipper isn’t folded inside!

 

Naai de bomberkraag vast en strijk de naad naar beneden.

Je kunt de naad ook doorstikken indien gewenst.

Nu kun je verder met de rits doorstikken en de Cicero of Foliis volgens instructie afwerken.

 

Sew the bomber collar and iron the seam down.

Optional: Topstich the seam of the collar.

Now you can finish the Cicero or Foliis by following the instructions.

 

 

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Vallis Tunic and Dress – Release

Our latest summer dress is here.  Not only is there a women’s version.  There is a girl’s version! So let’s get into it and see what we have going on here. Shall we? (This post contains affiliate links)

First, we have the Women’s Vallis. There are 2 skirt options; dress and tunic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 3 hem options are the best part! They include; round, handkerchief, and asymmetrical.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Empire and natural waist bodice, and gathered skirt or 1/2 circle finish up the options.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s have a look at the Girl’s Vallis.  The girls version features mostly the same options as the women’s.  The only difference is there is only one bodice option for the girls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To make the girl’s version even better it’s interchangeable with the Solis, Litore, Montis and Regina. So mix and match to your heart’s content.

I can’t believe I haven’t shown you the best part.  THE BACK! You ladies asked for a dress that you can wear with a regular bra and an unlined bodice.  This is it!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As usual our sale is short and sweet it runs from Tuesday, July 24 12.00 CET to Thursday, July 23.55 CET. You can get your copies here:

Womens Vallis:
Dutch – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/vallis-dames-tuniek-en-jurk-pdf/?affiliates=53
English – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/vallis-women-tunic-and-dress-pdf/?affiliates=53
French – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/les-femmes-vallis-pdf/?affiliates=53

Girls Vallis:
Dutch – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/vallis-meisjes-patroon-nl/?affiliates=53
English – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/vallis-girls-pattern-en/?affiliates=53
French – http://www.sofilantjes.com/product/vallis-filles-tunique-et-robe-pdf/?affiliates=53

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Summer Solis Suit

Swimsuit season is here! Well, in Arizona it is pretty much “swimsuit season” all year.  My daughter lives in the pool during summer.  I like to make her suits that can also function as a summer outfits because of the numerous 110+ degrees F days that we have.

One of my all time favorite patterns is the Solis dress from Sofilantjes.  I wanted to make that into a swim top, so that my daughter can have a comfortable/practical suit, but also super cute!
Continue reading Summer Solis Suit

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It’s been a long time coming…

Ever since the Solis Girl’s pattern released a lot of you have been asking for an adult version and while we had our doubts if this would work for adults, we now know you are right to have asked. This dress is amazing! Not only is this pattern amazing, but the results were awesome! We had such a great and sweet group of testers. So nice and supportive and wow, so many great results. They all look so amazing.

The Women’s Solis Tunic and Dress looks like the kids version, only it’s made to hug our beautiful curves. Since not every one of us looks great in a natural waist slim fitted bodice (and some of us are pregnant) we added an empire waist bodice. With these two bodice lengths we can all wear this dress. No matter how tall, short, full figured or skinny you are. Our testers have proven this.

I can hear you thinking, will it look good on me? Well, you can see for yourself. We’ll show you some pictures. Lets start with the natural waist, circle skirt version.


Continue reading It’s been a long time coming…

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Cessim shirt RELEASE

With the changing season we felt it was time for another boy/unisex pattern and it is a fun one! The Cessim Shirt is appropriate if you are moving into or out of winter.  The Cessim is a relaxed fit shirt which is comfortable during warm weather and suitable for thicker fabrics in winter. With so many options you can almost never make the same shirt twice!

There are four basic body colorblocks, three sleeve lengths and three neckline options. This pattern could easily become a staple in your kids wardrobe because it is both perfect for using scraps and/or panel fabrics.  But, let’s take it a bit slower and take a detailed at all the options one by one.

Let’s start with the color block options for the bodice. The first option is perfect for  beginners. The body is one piece which also makes it a lovely option for panel fabrics. The seam is at the back of the shirt.


Continue reading Cessim shirt RELEASE

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Learning Photography Week 4

We have made it to week 4!!!!  Hopefully over the past three weeks you have had a chance to mess around with some new settings on your camera, practiced taking photos in various lighting and backgrounds, and then tried some new poses.

This week, since it’s our final week, I figured the best completion of our photography month would be to talk about editing our photos.  I normally try to shoot for minimal editing but alas I have learned over the past year, that even a little editing can improve your photos immensely.  I know there are many various programs for editing.  GIMP is a free software that mimics Photoshop and Pixlr is also free.  There are many YouTube videos that talk about how to use GIMP and Pixlr.  Also, if you own a Mac, the photo editing software that comes with your computer is pretty decent.  There is also Lightroom and Photoshop.  I will let you know in advance that I only own Lightroom, and that is where I do all my editing.  I will walk through some basic tools that I use to edit my photos in Lightroom.

 

After importing my photos into Lightroom, the first thing I will do is crop my photo if it needs it.  Remember, try to crop so that focal point will follow the rule of thirds that we talked about previously.  You will find the cropping tool on the right side, a box that is made with dashed lines. I typically choose a preset format, makes it easier if you want to go and print your images. 
Continue reading Learning Photography Week 4

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Learning Photography Week 3

Welcome back!!!  We are now on Week 3 of our photography month!!!  Hopefully, the past 2 weeks have been helpful and that you are taking the time to take some photos and learn more about your camera.

This week we are talking about posing people, especially kids, in photography, and some tricks to get kids to pose (not an easy feat!).  While I am definitely not an expert, I do have three kids with various personalities, and have learned over the years some tricks to get some good photos especially for pattern testing!
Let’s start with the kids first.  I think the best tip to getting some good photos of children is being with them one on one.  No other distractions.  Take them to a new area, let them explore this new environment, ask them questions about what they see, all the while snapping photos.  These photos seem to be the most natural.  Some places that I have taken my kids are old abandoned buildings, a nature trail, field of wild flowers, a plant nursery, or even a post office.  Depending on the time of day, I have found the lighting to be wonderful at these spots. Notice how I didn’t say your house or backyard, I leave this as my last resort.  I find that these ‘familiar’ spots tend to be unexciting for the kids, and when I try to get them to look, smile, or pose, they just seem uninterested.  Below are some photos that were taken by abandoned buildings that are in the old town we live near.


Continue reading Learning Photography Week 3