Tag: Pattern hack

Solis Reversible Swimsuit Hack

Hey guys! It’s Karly from Paisley Roots and today I am sharing how to turn the Solis into an awesome reversible swimsuit top!

Grab some swim and the Solis Pattern and lets get started!

Since this pattern is already a pretty tight fit, I just use the size my kids measure into. If you would like a tighter fit, size down but make sure to lengthen the pattern to the size your kid fits into.
*Note: This is just for the swim top, you will still need to use a swimsuit or undies pattern to make the bottoms.

First cut out the front and back of Fabrics A & B. Cut out the Neckband and Back-band of a print that coordinates with both A & B fabrics.
Prepare the bands first.

1 – Fold Neckband and Back-band right sides together. Press bands using a heat suitable for the swim you are using.
2 – Sew along edge with a 3/8″ (1cm) seam. Turn both right-side out. Press both well.
Again, since this is swim, be careful with the amount of heat and time you leave the iron on the fabric. You don’t want to burn a hole in your fabric!
3 – Fold Back-band in half.
4 – Set aside.

Place Fabric A front and back right sides together. Sew along both side seams.

Place Fabric B front and back sides RST. Sew along both sides but leave a 3″ opening on one side.
Turn right side out. Press seams.

Place Fabric B bodice into Fabric A bodice, right sides together.
Line up side seams, neck and back.
Sew along top leaving openings at the shoulders and back middle.
Leave bodice inside out and grab the Neck-band.
Sandwich each side into the shoulder seam openings, right sides together.
Sew straight across each shoulder seam.
Turn right side out. Press well.
Grab Back-band and fold it over the Neckband.
Sandwich the Back-band into the back opening, right sides together.
Sew along Back-band opening.
Turn right-side out. Press well.

Turn bodice inside out and pull Fabric A and Fabric B sides away from each other. Make sure the sides aren’t twisted.

Fold one side over and match the side seam of Fabric A to Fabric B right sides together.
This will make a tube and you’ll have to consistently pull it slightly out as you go around.
Pin/clip the bottom edges together.
Sew all around the bottom. 
Pull Swimsuit right-side out through the side opening.
Press well.
Slip stitch opening closed.
You are finished!
Now go make some swim bottoms to match and you’ve got yourself an awesome and reversible swimsuit!
You can grab the Solis pattern here: Dutch, English
You can find me on Facebook, Instagram, My Blog

Making a dress from the ADV Tee Pattern

Thanks Anne for having me again, I am so excited to share how I made a new dress for my daughter using the ADV Tee pattern!

Op verzoek van Sofilantjes Sew and Show leden werden de naaistappen van deze hack vertaald naar het Nederlands door Miranda van Inspinration, het zijn de cursief gedrukte stukjes.

The best part about sewing for my kids is that if I come across an adorable outfit, I don’t have to buy it, but I can MAKE it! While online shopping the other day, I came across this adorable dress that would be perfect for my 4 year old daughter. As I sat there and looked at the bodice part of this dress I thought, hey that sure looks like I can use the Sofilantjes ADV Tee to recreate this look.


To recreate the dress that I saw, I just needed the top portion of view B of the ADVTee. According to the pattern and my daughters chest size, she is a size 4. I drew a red line across from the bottom of the armscye about 2 inches down on both the front bodice piece and the back bodice piece.

Om de jurk van de Tea collection na te maken heb je het bovenstuk van het ADV Tee patroon nodig. Bepaal de benodigde maat op basis van de maattabel. Teken vervolgens een horizontale lijn op vijf centimter onder het armsgat. Teken deze lijn zowel op het voor- als achterpand. Knip het patroon doormidden op de zojuist getekende lijn, het onderste deel heb je niet nodig.



From this point I followed the directions for view B to add the ribbing to the neckline and to sew the side seams. The pattern originally calls for snaps/buttons to be placed on the crossover portion. I double checked that the bodice would fit over my daughters’ head if I sewed the crossover closed, and it was fine for my daughter, but I would recommend checking to make sure before sewing the two front bodice pieces to make one. Otherwise you can follow the pattern and add the snaps or buttons which is a cute feature. I was just trying to recreate the dress I had seen previously.  Then, after sewing, I checked the fit again to just ‘be sure’ that everything was going to fit before I continued.

Naai vervolgens, zoals in de ADVT instructies, het stuk boordstof aan de hals en naai de zijnaden dicht. Ikzelf liet de Kamsnaps weg. Nadat ik controleerde of mijn dochters hoofd door de V-hals zou kunnen,  naaide ik de hals vast (met een rekbare steek).


Now, the ADV Tee pattern has pattern pieces for sleeves, but I decided to just do ribbing to finish the arm area. In order to figure out how long to cut the ribbing, first I measured the circumference of the sleeve area after the sides were sewn. My measurement for the size 4 came to 14” and then you multiply by .8 which is 11.2” but I just rounded down to 11” and cut 2 pieces of my ribbing 11” x 2”. I sewed the short ends of each ribbing piece right sides together using a 1/4” seam then turned right side out and folded the pieces in half and pinned to the right side of the shirt making sure that I evenly pulled the ribbing to match the armscye. Now the bodice is completely done, and we can start on the skirt.

Ik werkte de armsgaten af met boordstof, net als in de voorbeeldjurk die ik zag. Om de juiste lengte te bepalen, meet je het armgat op. Die lengte doe je maal 0.8 cm en dat geeft de benodigde lengte boordstof. Knip vervolgens een reep boordstof van 5 cm breed bij de lengte die je zojuist bepaalde.  Deze strip naai je vervolgens aan het armgat zoals een gebruikelijk boord. Daarvoor sluit je eerst de korte zijde, vervolgens dubbel vouwen en daarna op de goede kant van de stof naaien.  Hier is eventueel nog een andere Sofilantjes blogpost (in het Engels) met plaatjes hoe je een boordje vastnaait.

IMG_7422(1) IMG_7423(1)

I figured the length of my skirt piece to be 19” because I wanted it to fall just below my daughters’ knee so that she had room to grow with the dress. And to make things easy, I just used the full width of my fabric which is 54” and cut one piece for the skirt portion. Do take into consideration the seam allowance you will need to sew the skirt to the bodice and any hem you will have when determining the length of the skirt you will cut. So now that I had my piece of skirt fabric measuring 54”x 19” cut out, all I need to do is sew the 19” sides right sides together to make a big tube. Figure out which side is the top of your skirt and sew 2 rows of basting stitches, one at ¼ “ from the top and then 3/8” down from the first row. Gather the fabric until it is the same measurement as your bodice piece. Place your bodice piece inside your skirt, right sides together, and sew your bodice to the skirt between your two rows of basting stitches. Doing this will make nice and even gathers. You can finish with your serger and then hem however you wish, but since this is knit, I typically leave it unhemmed since it won’t fray.

Bepaal vervolgens de lengte van het rokdeel. Gebruik daarvoor een meetlint en meet vanaf 7 cm. onder de oksel naar waar je de zoom van de rok wilt (ergens rond de knie). Voeg vervolgens naadwaarde toe (1 centimeter aan de bovenkant en twee centimeter voor de zoom). Ikzelf gebruikte de hele stofbreedte, 160 centimeter en knipte een rok aan 1 stuk (rechthoek). Sluit de zijnaad (of zijnaden als je de rok in twee delen knipt). Naai twee rijgdraden in de bovenkant van de rok, eentje op 4 mm en eentje op 10 mm. Rimpel vervolgens, door aan de draden te trekken, zodat de rok dezelfde breedte heeft als het bovenstukje. Plaats het bovenstukje in de rok, met de goede kanten op elkaar. Naai de rok aan het lijfje met een stiklijn tussen de rijgdraden. Werk eventueel de onderzoom af, dit is echter geen vereiste omdat tricot niet rafelt. Als je geen zoom maakt, hoef je dus ook geen zoom-naad-waarde toe te voegen in de eerdere stap.

Hope you enjoy this easy hack of the ADV Tee. I know my daughter will be spending many days this summer in this comfortable knit dress, thanks Sofilantjes for great patterns that can be used in so many ways!

IMG_8889(1) IMG_8905(1) IMG_8894(1) IMG_8921(1) IMG_8933(1) IMG_8950(1)

Guest post: Alter A Pattern

Today is our last day for the Guest Blog Tour. We hope you enjoyed it as much as we did. Our last contribution for this Guest blog tour is How to alter a pattern by Deka Wear. Mirjam shows you how she alters our very popular Omni Tempore pattern into a tank top.

Would you like to see all the Guest posts one more time? Scroll down for the links. Plus, enter the Giveaway.

Hi, I’m Mirjam from DeKaWear. I learned how to sew when I was a kid but didn’t do much with it until I had my own kids. About six years ago, when my grandmother died I inherited her sewing machine. I decided to pick up sewing again. I did not get serious until about three years ago when I started my blog and bought my own sewing machine. I have three children: two daughters, one is almost 7 years old, the youngest is 15 months old. And a son who is 4 years old.

Last summer, I needed to sew a tank top for my eldest daughter, but I didn’t have a pattern. I decided to alter a sweater pattern into a tank top pattern. With summer coming up (I hope…), this trick might come in handy again.


Some things you need to consider before altering this pattern:

  • Alterations you make to the shoulder line and armhole should be the same on front and back.
  • Alterations you make to the middle of the neckline can be different in the front and back.
  • Alterations I’ve made are my own preference.
  • I’ve used a size 3 for this tutorial; actual measurements can be different in other sizes.
  • Make a muslin first to check if you like these alterations or if you would use other measurements.

Choose a pattern you like. For this tutorial, I used the Omni Tempore. First, make the sweater as is and try it on for size. Next, determine what you’d want to change:

  • The side seam at the shoulder will be taken in towards the neckline. Measure how much you want it taken in. This will be marked A in the tutorial.
  • Next, determine how wide you’d the shoulder seam to be. This will be mark B in the tutorial.
  • Determine if you’d like to make the armhole deeper. The difference between the original armhole depth and the new armhole depth will be marked C.
  • The center neckline will be lowered in the front and back. Determine how much you would like it to drop. This will be your mark D (front center neckline) and mark E (back center neckline)


Some numbers…

In my tutorial, I used these measurements:

A: 3 cm or 1 1/4 inch
B: 5 cm or 2 inch
C: 3 cm or 1 1/4 inch
D: 4 cm or 1 5/8 inch
E: 5 cm or 2 inch

Transfer the front and back bodice parts of the pattern. (Note: You do not need the sleeves and collar parts.) If you want to finish the bottom hem with ribbing, use the instructions in the pattern.

Front bodice piece.
1. Draw a dot on the shoulder line, shift the distance A from the side seam to the neckline.

2. Draw a line with the length you’ve chosen for B from that dot (mark A) towards the neckline.

3. Draw a dot at the distance you’ve chosen for mark C under the armhole/side seam point (see picture).

4. Draw a dot at 4 cm / 1 5/8 inch left from the original armhole/side seam point.

5. Draw the new armhole line, starting from the dot you’ve placed in step 3, following to the dot from step 4, ending at the dot from step 1. (Do not give up if this fails the first time. It takes some exercise to draw a nice armhole. At least in my case it did.  If you have a French curve on hand, now is the time to use it)

6. Draw a dot at the distance you’ve chosen for D under the middle neckline point.

7. Draw the new neckline between the dot you placed in step 6 to the end of the line you made in step 2. Note: Draw the line flat at the center neckline to change the original neckline that is V-shaped.


Now you’ve made the front piece for your new tank top pattern.

Take the back bodice piece and repeat steps 1 – 5.
8. Draw a dot at the distance you’ve chosen for mark E under the middle neckline point.

9. Draw the new neckline between the dot you placed in step 8 to the end of the line you made in step 2.


Now you’ve also made the back piece for your tank top pattern.

Cut out the fabric. Seam allowance is included (3/8″- 1cm). Sew the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams towards the back.

About ribbing…

To finish the armhole and neckline, we are using ribbing. The ribbing piece’s width should be between 85% and 90% of the length of the armhole or neckline. Use this formula to calculate the amount of ribbing you will need:

Height: (2*seam allowance) + (2* hem)
Width: The total length of the armhole or neckline * 0,9 (this is for 90%, for 85% choose 0,85)

In my case, the seam allowance was 1 cm or 3/8 inch. The hem also is 1 cm or 3/8 inch.

So in the formula for cm it is: (2*1) + (2*1) = 2+2 = 4
In inches the formula is: (2* 3/8) + (2 * 3/8) = 3/4 + 3/4 = 1 1/2 inch

For the armhole, measure the length of the front and back armhole and add them together. In my case, they were both 20 cm or 8 inches. So one armhole is 40 cm or 16 inches.

Put this in the formula and you get (CM): 40 * 0,9 = 36 cm.
For inches it is: 16 * 0,9 = 14 3/8 inch.

For the neckline, measure the size of the front and back neckline and add them together. If you measured from the pattern pieces, you would have to multiply this by 2. In my case it was 12 cm or 4 3/4 inch and 15,5 cm or 6 inch (on the pattern piece), so the length of the neckline in cm was (12+15,5) * 2 = 27,5 * 2 = 55 cm. Put this in the formula and you get 55 * 0,9 = 49,5 cm.
In inches it was (4 3/4 + 6) * 2 = 10 3/4 * 2 = 21 1/2 inch. In the formula you’ll get 21 1/2 * 0,9 = 19 1/2 inch.

So now you have two squares: One for the armhole and one for the neckline. In my case:

For the armhole, in cm: height: 4 cm, width: 36 cm
In inch: height: 1 1/2 inch, width: 14 3/8 inch

For the neckline, in cm: height: 4 cm, width 49,5 cm
In inch: height: 1 1/2 inch, width: 19 1/2 inch

Enough mathematics (although I love maths!), let’s sew!

Cut out the ribbing, one strip for the neckline, and one for each armhole. Total of three pieces of ribbing.

There are more ways than one to sew ribbing. I’ve chosen what I think is the quick and easy way and described it here. You could also choose to sew it on the way you sew on bias tape.

With the right sides together, sew the short ends together.


Press the seam open.

Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Pin the ribbing to the armhole. Placing the seam of the ribbing on the sideseam of the armhole. Stretch out the ribbing while pinning it on the fabric.

Now stitch the ribbing to the armhole, stretch the ribbing while sewing.


Repeat for the other armhole and the neckline. For the neckline, place the seam of the ribbing at the center back or the shoulder seam.

Fold the ribbing to the inside and press.


Topstitch around the armhole and neckline, using 0,5 cm or 1/8 inch seam allowance. Stretch out the fabric while sewing.


Finish the bottom hem like described in the pattern.

Press the top, and you’re finished!


Anne, thanks for having me!

Thanks for being part of this tour, Mirjam.

Would you like to see the other posts one more time? Here they are:
Guestpost: Skipping your understitching? Stop it!
Guestpost: The Power of Pockets
Guestpost: Slim adjustments with the ADVTee
Guestpost- Shirring: Don’t Be Scared
Guestpost: Mash It Up!
Guestpost: Sewing with Knits
Guest post: Sewing on the perfect binding
Guestpost: How to make your own bias tape
Guest Post: How to Make a French Seam
Guestpost: Sewing by hand
And today’s post Guest post: Alter a pattern