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Guestpost: Foliis (no zipper) dress hack


The Sofilantjes’ Foliis pattern is amazing and wonderful and I love it!  It’s quick and easy and makes such a lovely little jacket.  I tested both the long jacket and the cropped jacket.  Read more about them here.

As I was testing the cropped version, I had somewhat of a styling crisis.  I could not figure out what I wanted to pair with this cute little cropped jacket.  I liked the look of the cropped jacket with the Gemini, but I also wanted to try another look.  A simple dress, maybe…  

I found a bit of grey fleece that matched the dark grey in the elephants and a bit of light grey ribbing that matched the light grey in the elephants.  I did a little experiment and came up with this.  A slightly modified version of Option C of the Foliis Dress.

It pairs perfectly with the jacket, and Buttercup gets her beloved pockets.



This is a really simple modification.  It only requires a little bit of extra ribbing for the neck. And no zippers or closures, this little thing slips right on over the head. 


Here’s how to make one of your very own:

1. Use the same pattern pieces as required for the Option C dress

  • Bodice front, cut on waistline
  • Bodice back, cut on waistline
  • Sleeve
  • Skirt front, with pockets cut out
  • Skirt back
  • Pocket piece
  • Pocket facing
  • Pocket ribbing
  • Extra ribbing for neckband  xx” (length) x 2″ (width)
2. Cut each piece as stated, EXCEPT the bodice front. Cut bodice front on fold.  Move center front edge of pattern piece past fold 3/8″ (1cm).  
3.  Place back bodice and front bodice right sides together. Sew shoulder seams. Press shoulder seams toward back.
4.  Pint the sleeve to the armhole, right sides together.  Find center point of sleeve and match to shoulder seam. Sew the sleeve to the armhole. Repeat with other sleeve.
5. Fold bodice front and back together along center lines.  Measure the length from center front to center back.
This next step will make it easier to attach the neckband equally, skip it if you wish.
6. Place pins and center front and center back.  Fold in half, matching center front and center back pins, place pin at each fold to mark quarters.
7. To find the length of your neckband it’s Math Time:  
  • Length from center front to center back x 2
  • total length x 80% (or .8)
  • Example from dress shown:  
      • 8.75in. x 2 =  17.5in.
      • 17.5in. x .8 = 14in  (total length of neckband)
8. Cut ribbing   xx” (total length of neckband) x 2in. (width).  Be sure length goes same direction as stretch.
9. Fold ribbing in half, right sides together, matching short ends. Sew side to create a loop
10. Fold ribbing in half, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press.  Mark quarters with pins.
11. Place the neckband on the right side of the fabric, align ribbing seam with center of back bodice, matching raw edges. Align the quarter pins of the neckband to the dress. Pin together.  
12. Sew neckband to dress, stretching ribbing to fit the neck.  DO NOT stretch neck opening.
Bury that tail!
13. Turn neckband and press.
14. Continue following steps 46-54 for Option C, to finish the skirt and attach the bodice. 
    • Finish the sleeves by hemming with a zigzag stitch, double needle, or finish with a cuff using the same technique we used for the neckband.
    •  Note: In Step 52 you may use a serger to attach the bodice and skirt since there is no zipper.     
You have made an adorable new dress.
If you haven’t picked up your copy of the Foliis yet, go get it now, so you can make one of these to pair with your cropped jacket.  
Thanks for reading! I hope you give this a try.  

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